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  1. Hello Thumpertalk, This thread will document the repair and assembly of my 85 xr600r. It's been a while so i thought id start a new thread. You can find the original thread here. Here we go! Showing the manual and C1 Gear high and low boss sides. below is the lower boss side. these were on backwards when i took them out if i remember correctly, would explain neutral to first and first to 2nd shifting slippage Blue ink is oem parts fiche diagram#'s Below is the Higher boss side C1 Same with C2 below. Higher boss side Lower boss side C2 below with the worst of the damage on any of the gear dog mating holes (please let me know the correct engineering term because that cant be correct Worst of the wear on any of the gear dogs Finished Main shaft and my brand new circlip/snap-ring pliers. excited to use these babies in the future on my next project (yes I'm already thinking of another one) Workbench Holy Clearance Specs Batman! Used Micrometer. All good. Wash Bin Completed Transmission!! Crankshaft and connecting rod. Falicon Rod In the shop right now getting cleaned straightened and pressed together. Couldn't resist a picture with my firefighter hat! Cleaning cases Masking Cases Primer and Paint start to finish in my super professional homemade painting booth Tape Off That's it for now! Going back to work tomorrow. Will Post pics next week of pressed crankshaft. Maybe paint other engine covers. Need to order Shift Drum pieces and have all the bearings pressed in Thanks guys! P.S. Please let me know if you see anything wrong or have any suggestions. HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!!
  2. Looking to replace the busted up stock tank on my 650l, but have no need for more fuel capacity.
  3. When I picked up my 87 XR6r the PO had a ton of extra parts that I now have. I already sold the extra tank and seat but I still have: Front wheel with rotor and axle-$75 Front fork assembly- $100 Front fender-$25 Rear Fender-$25 Stock Speedometer-$30 (turns on, but wont properly display speed/functions. Only 7's across the screen 🤦) Headlight housing with glass-$30 I think there are some other bits and pieces too in the box. I can post up pics later or if you are interested shoot me a text and I can send pics asap! I can also gather shipping quotes for you. I am in Washington State. Thanks guys 573-619-4666
  4. so today I was going to go out for a ride, almost got to my buddies house, when the bike died, thought it was maybe out of gas, so i pulled in the clutch and went on reserve. I was still rolling so i popped it up into 3rd to try to roll start it, but no luck. stopped and pulled of to the side to try and kick it. the engine was siezed. this had happened before once and it ran fine after i let it cool down. so i let it sit and got a cup of coffee. i came back out to start her up, but i couldnt find tdc. the kick start would turn and turn but no hard point. it was harder to kick through the cycles and it has a weird squeek sound from the cylinder. any ideas on what happened or what the problem is??? it was running just fine 2 weeks ago i took it out on a 6 hr ride no overheating nothing. i has just been out of service because i cracked the tank in a biff about 3 rides ago.
  5. Hi all, long time stalker first time poster. Had my xr600r a few years now brought it with everything done lucky. Anyway it has sat in the shed for 3 or so years regoed and ready to Roll just to lazy to get my Lience. Now have it and I'm riding it to work Everyday saving ks on the car doing about 200 250 km a week, Loving the bike hasn't missed a beat but doing 80% of that Highway I want to set up for 100% road. I have picked up a set of cbr600 rims done some maching on them Got them to start fitting and taking shape but gave up on the idea Now I have my Lience it's back on. Has anyone on here done it? how much work is realy involved? Is the Juice worth the squeeze?? Ect ect. Send in your pics cbr rims or not show me your rigs!! I will have plenty more questions to ask you all that have Cheers.
  6. wandering around the internet last nite and noticed TAROZZI FORK BRACES on fastfromthepast.com website and saw they carried fork braces for early xr's. $104 seems a fair price. only seen them for xr600r/xr650l up until now
  7. So let me start by introducing myself, I'm shifty00 (I would tell you my real name but I don't trust the interwebs haha) am new to this forum. I am a welder/fabricator and I have decided to build something fun as a project. I got a Yamaha Warrior 350 for building my buddy a rack for his RZR. This thing was beat but it was free so whatever. Anyhow I went to drain the oil and found about 30lbs of magical pixy dust on the oil filter. I did manage to get it running but it was spewing smoke and didn't enjoy starting. long story short I decided it would be more fun to make a hybrid rather than dumping money into an already "Meh" engine. That leads me too my purchase of a 1993 XR600R engine on Craigslist. I looked it over, some things are missing but all and all it looks ok, it came with a carb and at the time I was skeptical about the carb because it just looked too damn busy for an xr motor. And now after knowing what that OEM carb looks like I know this is not at all an XR carb. It has features I wouldn't mind but I have no clue what it is or if it would even work on the motor. It is a CV and a pumper and has remote choke (dose not stay engaged, feels like a spring pulls it back closed?) Anyhow can someone please tell me what the heck it is... I can't find a single damn marking on it, so I assume its some china crap but I really don't know. here is a link the previous engine owner gave me after I txted him asking what the hell carb he gave me.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/262774188434 Also can anyone tell me if I will have oil starvation issues if it tilt the motor at a sharper angle than it would sit in the dirtbike frame? I figured dry sump would be very forgiving in that area but I worry about oil pooling to the front of the head and stuff like that. I will have about 1,000,000 questions but lets start here haha. Here is a pic of the infant stage of the build. (engine is just resting in there no mounts made yet). Thanks for any help with my Yamda/Honaha YFM600R...
  8. This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years). Made in the USA. Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.) Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs. Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight. Matches the rear shock coil. length is Aprox. 34mm If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $40 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military. Cjmrizek@gmail.com Make your subject: XR600r
  9. So I'm kind of at a loss. A little background I picked up a non running 87 xr600r project for about $400 that was pretty beat up and came to life with a cheap new stator. My plan was to tear it down replace a few bearings fix a head gasket leak and probably sleeve it and add a new piston since I'd be in the top end. Sand & paint the frame and engine, call it a day and have a cheap trail bike. Since I've had it running I havent been able to to ride it. The tires were junk and the front sprocket was on backwards making the chain rub half irs rivets off on the frame. I bought a new chain, sprocket, tires and tubes for about $200 bucks off fleabay.. I'm cheap but one think I hate is fighting with tire spoons so I drop the wheels and tires down to my local bike shop hoping to putt around this weekend being so nice out. Unfortunately they were out sick so I stopped by the Indian triumph polaris dealer next door who says they got me and will give me a call. Buzzkill. They call me a couple hours later and let me know the front rim had some rust issues but they got the tire on. Then they tell me the rear rim is rusted and trashed on the inside. They said they'd try to track down a rim or replacement but didnt have any luck. I did some hunting on fleabay and found some wheels for $200-400 w shipping for a rear which could be just as ratted out. They sell some cheap Chinese rims for about $235 f+r shipped but I'd also have to buy spokes which would add another $100-200 And labor to install them could be another $100 or more. Also being a dealership I'm already charged $100 for the tire change so they get there minimum shop hour and spent $110 on eBay for the tires & tubes... Adding all that up is be at least $6-700 bucks in wheels in tires alone. I haven't even ridden it to uncover any other problems and already think it at least needs a top end.. I'm About $800 in the bike right now and was hoping to keep it all around $1500 or at least less 2k. I was thinking most of that would be in the top end rebuild. Above $2k is probably more then the bike rebuilt is worth. I'm hoping I can find a used rear pretty cheap If anyone on here has one that's not rusted out? Or knows of anything else that will fit on it? I reall love these xr's but if I can't come up with anything im thinking of putting it up for sale or parting it out since I could through the front end on my 85 xl600r scramber I built.. Anybody have any thoughts or ideas? Pics for good measure. Thanks
  10. well hello all, seems like forever since I posted last. and it has been five years. wow! at least I never quit reading all the posts. as I fix OP's XR's (doing lots of wiring esp) I have noticed that almost all the bikes have an original Honda harness with the dual sport wiring laid over it. most dual sport kits supply new leads for the positive side of new lights etc but most often the add on stuff tags into the Honda GREEN ground wire. the Honda harness had little to control so there is one small (I am hard pressed to call it 18ga) GREEN ground wire running end to end in the harness with a branch off it to frame ground at the coil mount. darn near every harness I look at has a pretty sad looking "branch" wire. that is, the wire is all discolored and brittle from being overloaded. so my thought on this is to remember to inspect that wire when you find yourself having electrical issues... it may not be the cause of your problem but that's a perfect time to check it out and upgrade it. I cut the old wire out any time I remove a tank. feel free to get proactive. have a dandy! neil
  11. This replaces the tube that connects the two carbs on a 1987 Honda XR600R (it may fit other years). Made in the USA. Constructed of TPU (solvent safe plastic.) Its durable stiff abrasion resistant yet flexible enough you never have to worry about breaking it when you're taking apart your carbs. Fits the o-ring perfectly and slips into the carb nice and tight. Matches the rear shock coil. If you would like to buy one contact me via e-mail. They cost $20 Shipping is free (anywhere in the USA). $10 off for active duty or retired military. Cjmrizek@gmail.com Make your subject: XR600r
  12. hey everybody, got a great dilemma i'm dealing with.. i'm currently waiting on a purchase of a 1987 XL600R, beautifully modded and rebuilt completely. i have until Friday to decide. the engine was rebuilt for about 4K $ perfectly, and from the start the carb was a problem. now the engine doesn't work properly (PD03-52, the one with 44hp) and in need of a new carb. are there new carbs out there for this engine specifically on ebay and such worth trying to find? is there a different engine head /carb i could use to run this engine properly? thanks for any help, Raanan
  13. Hey guys, I put a Mikuni TM40 on my XR600R and really like it, but I always wondered if the FCR might be better. I ran across this EBay listing for a new FCR style carburetor. It doesn't show as a Keihin brand. Anybody buy one of these yet? Its a good price but I won't buy if the quality isn't there. I bought another XR and thought I would try an FCR on the new bike so I have one of each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-R-CRF450R-Carburetor-Carb-2002-2008-NEW/122835304977?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd8d46407b09b4518913684b5910695aa%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D253192404113&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 Any input?
  14. Ok so I have been asking questions about this bike for some time on these forums, just thought I would give an update along with some more questions. It was running great (although a bit rich) a few weeks ago. Would ride all day at the trails but would eventually foul the plug after about 2 hours of riding. I tried to adjust the fuel mixture down but I had it all the way down to 1/4 turn out so I am ordering some smaller jets for it now. It is also having a starting when hot issue which I know its always hard to start a hot 4-stroke compared to a 2-stroke. But I know this is directly caused by my valves being tight, which is weird because I just adjusted my valve lash. I intend to adjust the valve lash again but maybe go one size bigger for both intake and exhaust to make them not as tight, is this a good idea? The last time I went riding, I was coming back after mabye a 20 min stint in the woods when the bike just died. I pushed it back and checked the plug expecting it to be charred but it really wasn't too bad. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and put it back in and tried starting... nothing... Pulled the plug and checked for spark and nothing! This bike has a brand new stator (checked Ohms, stator is still good), and a brand new Coil. I suspect some other wiring issue but I am still not 100% sure. I ordered a new CDI just to eliminate that if it is the issue as well. Electrical things I have done to this bike that may have caused issues: Installed LED lights (rookie mistake, LEDs wont run on AC) this fried some wires which I have since repaired. I have chased and checked ground and power wires and nothing seems wrong there. I can take apart an engine and rebuild it from the ground up but wiring is not my strong suit so that is why I am asking for your help! Thank everybody for all the assistance. I really like this old bike and I don't intend to give up on it any time soon!
  15. So I recently bought an 85 XR600R. My 1st bike when I was 13 was a 79 XR 250 and loved it. Now I bought the best bike from a young kid who said it was running in his ad. Of course it wasn't when I went to look at it. But, the price was right after I talked him down a little. My son and I have replaced the CDI, plug, and coil pack ensuring it had a good spark. We cleaned the carb, adjusted floats (it's the duel carb set up) and discovered that the mixture screw was missing, which we replaced. My son managed to get it started a few times by relentlessly kicking it over because he's 15. Haha. It idled unpredictably and cut out mostly within a minute not to be started again until it cooled. It ran long enough once for me to ride it up and down the road a few times backfiring with almost every gear shift for about ten minutes tops. It seemed underpowered but was still able to lift the front wheel off the ground slightly during takeoff. Now I didn't tell you that I had bought a compression gage and checked it prior to all this. It was roughly 70psi which I was told by a coworker was plenty to get it started and ride on. With all the difficulty starting it I decided to check the Haynes Manuel that I have and check the actual compression spec which I should have done from the beginning. Now that I realize I'm at/under 1/2psi compression I'm doing a little research as to what to do now. I'm not a mechanic, but I've gotten my hands in there doing simple repairs and whatnot. If I have a manual I'm pretty much good to go, but a full motor rebuild is a little daunting. I have a good friend that is an auto mechanic that lives right down the street that just started getting into restoring bikes that is willing to help me out. My biggest concern is the availability of parts for this motor. I've seen some stuff here and there on the web, but I'm looking for any suggestions that can point me in the right direction. I Really LOVE this bike and would love to see it ressurected, but I'm afraid I'm going to get too deep in to my pocket to have it make sense. Any info or suggestions welcome!
  16. Hello All, I recently started a project where I purchased a 1987 Honda XL600R basket case. The engine required too much to repair it, so I purchased a 1987 XR600R solely for the engine. I have already mounted the XR engine into the XL frame, see the images below. This is not my first rodeo, plus I have an Electro-mechanical Engineering background. I am seeking advice from experienced persons that have done this engine swap in the past and what needs to be done that i might have overlooked. The engine is currently mounted, has spark and clean carbs installed. Need an o-ring that I ordered to button up the oil lines. Then I can fill with oil and gas to lit up the XR engine, which is basically stock at this point. Here's what I got and I think needs to be done: XR Motor with the XR Carbs Will be using stock XL airbox. Will be using stock XL exhaust system. Swap XR Stator with XL Stator. Will I need to swap the rotors too? Will need a new rear sprocket and chain. Any recommendations on the number of teeth I should use on the rear with this motor? Will be needing a set of new tires too. Any recommendations on tires for street, trail, and dirt riding? Any advice will be helpful and appreciated to help save me some time and this old girl back on the road sooner.
  17. i had just re timed the xr600 when i was riding only 1 hour after the rebuild and i shut off the bike, i went to kick it back over and it was misteriously grinding when i turned the engine over and i could not find tdc. i took it home toore the engine out and i opend the valve cover and i saw the (first picture) cam sproket bolt laying next to the cam sprocket stripped out. so that explains the loss of tdc. pluss the other bolt was the same way but still hanging in by two threads. my question is what caused those bolts to (melt) away like butter. because if i replace these bolts is it going to happen again and risk getting metal into the case and wrecking a few gears. thanks, Connor.
  18. Hello I have a 97 xr600r and I recently purchased a 5 gallon tank from justgastanks.com first off the petcock did not fit in the hole the tank was drilled to 7/16 the stock honda tank is 1/2in I contacted clarke and they told me to drill it so i did it not leaking but when I put it on my bike the petcock is resting on the cylinder fins has anyone ran into this problem thank you also I the tank had another few issues I wasn't happy about I will elaborate if someone wishes
  19. Can anyone explain to me why the mid-pipe on certain XR600R/XR650L exhausts gets substantially bigger before attaching to the muffler? In most cases it is actually the same size as the muffler where it attaches. The XR's only mufflers are a great example of this and so is my White Brothers E series muffler. On the other hand you have the more traditional mid-pipe shape from companies like FMF for the same XR600R. The midpipe is relatively the same size from the header to the muffler connection. Even high performance street bikes use this approach so why is it different with the big single? I've been looking at replacing my White Brothers muffler lately because it doesn't have the discs nor the backing plate to make it USFS approved. I've been back and forth between the FMF Powercore 4 and the xr's only mufflers. I was wondering if the odd mid-pipe shape helps the XR's only mufflers flow better. From what I've read the XR's only mufflers are stupid loud and that would warrant a quiet insert for me and thus choking the high flow muffler, right? Also, for anyone wondering- the White Brothers header that was installed on my XR600R is VERY CLOSE to the same dimensions as an XR's only header at both the cylinder and mid-pipe connection.
  20. So I ordered .47 fork springs and 11.5 rear spring for my xr600r from XR's only. And I bought the race tech suspension bible. So far I can't find any talk about what people have done for shim stacks or other fork mods. I have ideas about what I think I should do but why experiment if there is a known good starting point. I revalved my ranger about 10 years ago and I remember finding a lot of info online to help me with a starting point. I'm 6'2 230lb. The bike is plush now but bottoms bad when I get in the whoops and I blew out the bearing for the rear shock last ride. Any tips or tricks ? I'm not that great of a rider and no suspension expert but I'm pretty sure it can be set up better for me. I hoped the race tech "bible" would have some info in it but it seems like more of a sales tool for the gold valves...
  21. I have a 1993 XR600R that has been dual sported. Top end was rebuilt about 1000 miles ago. I have a miss in the engine that begins as you accelerate after the engine is warm - about 5 to 10 minutes of riding. As I accelerate, the engine feels like it cuts out intermitantly . If I slow down it runs strong with no miss. I have rebuilt the carb and everything is to spec. Engine idles fine. New plug. Any ideas.
  22. a question for you all,has anyone grafted a crf450x rear wheel onto there xr600r?i have a crf450r front end and at the moment there is a really good deal in nz for wheel assemblies, my front will fit all good just wondering if anyone has gone there with there bike? thanks!
  23. I experienced a new issue reading my oil so I figured I would share it with you guys. I abuse my bike very badly. Constantly drowning it in mud and clay. I changed my oil 2000 miles ago despite this fact. Well needless to say I had plenty of gunk in my oil filter. Apparently so much that I got false oil readings constantly. When the sump pump returns the oil to the top of the bike. If your filter does not move oil through the oil filter correctly it will store a vastly large amount of oil in the upper frame where you take your reading. If your bike behaves like it does not have enough oil, and yet your dipstick says you have plenty it probably means it's time to change/clean your oil filter. The bike also has an oil screen in the front center of the bike. Make sure you are checking and cleaning that as well if you abuse your bike as much as I do.
  24. Prior to reassembling the case, I tested the shifting and it seems the center fork attached to the shaft seems to stick at the steepest section of the drum. I have cleaned and tested all forks and surfaces for smooth movement, tried it with silicone and oil. With very little help, it seems to shift ok, but without the help, it binds. Can I assume that once it is together the oil lines are attached and oil is added to the case, the binding will stop? I have tested every scenario short of assembling the entire motor. Should I be able to successfully test the shifting with the case apart?
  25. My pig's about ten years old and has 12,000 miles on the clock. To my knowledge the shock's never been gone through. I assume it's due for some new oil and nitrogen by now? How much of a difference will I notice if I get it revalved while I'm at it? If I do get it revalved, should I try to do it myself, have a local shop do it, or send it to someone?
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