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Found 72 results

  1. Looking to replace the busted up stock tank on my 650l, but have no need for more fuel capacity.
  2. I found a buddy that’s going to help me with the “Dave’s Carb Mod” after that what size jets should I order before we begin? I’m in Cols Ohio and 1140 above sea level. Should I just order the Dyno kit or FMF kit or should I just go to jets r us and order 2-3 from there? Thanks all so much help. Love it. Stay safe out there.
  3. Hello Thumper Talk Community! This is my first post here, just created my account a few minutes ago. I apologize if I violate any type of forum rules or formatting, but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. To begin with: I've been riding dirtbikes since I was 8. I am currently a 19 year old University student in upstate NY, and I am riding a 2006 Honda XR650L that I bought myself when I turned 16. I've attached pictures of it (taken today, as I wrote this post) to illustrate the condition it is in, what it looks like, etc. While I have been riding for an extremely long time, and consider myself a safe and competent rider, I have a very limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles. My dad introduced me to bikes and taught me to ride, but my riding experience over the years has been on my own, and my mechanical knowledge is self-taught and basic maintenance of my bike at best - nothing fancy whatsoever. He and I don't really speak anymore, and therefore I don't have any type of guidance or reference points when it comes to bike mechanics (or mechanics of any kind, for that matter). Nevertheless, I am very interested in modifying and improving my bike and possibly beginning a project to convert it into a café racer or scrambler-esque bike. I rarely go off-road anymore and use my XR as a daily driver, but I find the traction of off-road tires to be favorable and have never had street tires. Therefore I'm debating whether or not to keep my off-road tires (or get different ones), making the bike more of a scrambler - or to use street tires making it more of a café racer. If I'm using terminology wrong and have no idea what the f**k I'm talking about, then please always feel free to correct me. I am using Daniel Peter's custom XR650L café racer, and Ready Moto's brat/cafe racer as inspiration. I think both are beautiful bikes/rebuilds, and want something very similar as my final product. However, I think Daniel Peter's bike is tricked out in a very expensive (and unnecessary to me) way (i.e. antelope seat, c'mon dude). I also want to preserve my passenger seat and pegs, if possible. I have absolutely no idea where to start, and have no current access to welding or fabrication machines of any kind. I'm asking for a full walkthrough and as much help as you all are willing to give me. Because I'm in school, I have a very limited budget. Basically, I'm willing to do my short term modifications and enhancements, and probably put the conversion project on hold until the spring. This is particularly dependent upon the advice I get. I don't need the bike as much in the fall, because I live on my college campus, but it's nice to have around in working condition (I know the project would require pulling it all apart and not riding for a while). So if any part I need for this is expensive but necessary, I will save up for it and make it happen. If there are cheaper, reasonable alternatives to achieve the same goal, then I will do that. I'd appreciate all advice along those lines. I just replaced my battery two weeks ago, and am going to attempt to replace the brake pads (a simple job, I know, but with luck/mechanical ability like mine, it can be quite daunting!) The chain is new, the frame has been reinforced at certain points, but everything else is stock! What I Want Out of This Bike (Short Term) 1. I'd like to put the battery underneath the seat. 2. I want to clean it up, particularly the rusted parts, and possibly repaint/replace them to make sure the bike looks better. (Need guidance for this, as I'm unsure how to remove rust/how to go about repainting parts - why I posted pics, so hopefully this community can identify where my "problem areas" are on this bike). 3. Learn how to properly winterize and maintain bike. Currently I check oil regularly, fill it with premium gas, lube the chain once or a week or more, and wash it (probably not enough) and spray WD-40 on various pieces. If I'm an incompetent fool, tell me. 4. Replace footpegs, throttle, handgrips. 5. If feasible with my current bike, put in a circular (brighter) headlight instead of the stock square one. Am willing to get rid of red plastic housing, or find an alternative. What I Want Out of This Bike (Long Term) 1. A full café-racer type conversion, styled similar to what I linked above. My dream "bought brand new" bike currently is a Triumph Bonneville converted to a scrambler (provided a pic) to let y'all know what I'm interested in, aesthetically. 2. Switch out stock carb (40mm) with a 41mm Keihin FCR-MX flat slide. I've been doing lots of reading, and it looks like this will drastically improve bike performance and throttle response in many ways, not limited to AFR and starting. 3. Repaint the sucker! Sorry for the giant wall of text, I appreciate those who have read this far. Please ask any questions, give comments, critiques, advice, anything! I look forward to hearing what the TT Community has to say. Cheers! John
  4. Sorry all. I'm sure there is plenty of info on the forum regarding this topic already, but I am apparently challenged when it comes to searching. I do not know much about jetting but have been researching and readying about the "Dave's Mods" and am confident i can handle that and plan to do it to the bike shortly after i get it (couple weeks away). The bike is completely stock presently with very low miles (just over 100). Question is this: I don't plan any internal engine mods but I do plan to de-smog right away. When $$ permits I plan to do the following all at once: Uni filter and remove snorkle; FMF Q4 (possibly with the stock headpipe or power bomb); Dave's mods to carb. Like i said I do not know much about jetting but I did have installed a dynojet kit in my Brute Force when i put on the new muffler and filer. I see they have a Stage I and Stage II available that would appear to fit the bill in my case. Which one should i go with? I am looking more for proper jetting with the increased air flow and to correct the lien issue than I am for shear power. Also, would I be better off just ordering the specific jets as i have seen elswhere on the forum from jetsrus or whatever the site is? I will ride primarily Indiana, Wisconsin and Michigan so no crazy elevations to consider. Thanks in advance for helping out an old guy new to the forum!
  5. So I've been riding a crf230f road legal conversion done, but I need something a little more powerful, and able to ride longer distances on asphalt to get to a trail. I want something light weight and reliable, but also road worthy and inexpensive. Narrowed down to: Suzuki Drz400 BMW G650X challenge Dr650 (although too heavy) Xr650l (heard it lacks bottom end) Ktm, Husqvarna, ccm, husaberg etc are out of bounds (due to price or maintenance issues.) Note: buying second hand
  6. Fellow big bore brothers, I have uncorked my XR650L with Dave's Carb Mod, popped the top snorkel on my air box, Free Flow filter, and finally wore out my stock Bridgestone TW knobby trash tires and put on Mitas E07 front and rears. I am now searching for an exhaust kit that compliments the bike aesthetically, gives it a good bark at idle and highway speeds, and still delivers good power. I have been considering XR's Only header and slip-on but haven't heard to seen too many reviews for it... but like the price I have also considered FMF since I was never disappointed on my 2 strokes or my previous CRF450X... My ears and mind are open to suggestions... what is everyone using? I am budget conscience but more so concerned of getting a kit that may need re-jetting due to the existing Dave's Mod. Thanks -Risty
  7. How the hell are you supposed to get that thing out? I bought that overpriced motion pro tool, tried heating it and soaking it, and it still will not move a millimeter. Do I have to use an impact driver, or do I have to drill the peening out? Can I reuse the retainer once it is out? Can I just loctite it back in later, or should I re-peen it?
  8. I'm getting down to the end of working on a nearly bolt on EFI conversion for my xr650l (and maybe yours too!) Our bikes only came with crank sensors so have provisions for mounting them, nbd. Cam sensors on the other hand... I believe I can use what appears to be a very convient casting in the valve cover that with a little milling should accomadate a standard sensor. It lines up almost perfectly with the camshaft. I've already found that there is some variance in how Honda cast these bosses, ie: with or without holes in them. Doesn't matter though, just a few more chips left on the table after the machine work. So what I could use are few quick measurements to make sure this works. Need inner and outer diameter of the two bosses(red and blue) as well as the center to center distance of the two.
  9. Hello, after many years I am back to riding again, kinda. I just bought an xr650l with most of the supermoto conversion done. All it needed was a horn, mirror, turn signals, and a tail light. Seemed simple enough and I got it at a "your a good friend" price. The horn went on with little problems, along with the mirrors. I learned what a relay switch looked like after buying L.E.D. turn signals, but other than that, we were kosher. I installed the rear tail light, as some other tutorials show, and there was no power. I looked up the wiring diagram, and after double checking I connected the right wires, still no power. Is there a relay I need for the tail light? Even if there were a relay needed, I assumed it would still light up as a driving light without it? Electrical components are not my cup of tea.
  10. Picked up a xr650l that was partially converted into a street tracker. Trying to finish the job, put everything together... I noticed the spacing of the front wheel is off. Much closer to the fork on the right (looking from the front, the calpier side). The left side (speedometer sensor side) has a lot more space. The previous owner threw on Talon Billet Pro Wheels with Excel Rims (19"). Not sure if I am missing the correct spacer? OR perhaps the stock xr650l speedometer is not compatible with the hubs? Pics included...
  11. Has anyone seen one of these for sale ON THIS CONTINENT? Nothing against the South Africans but shipping cost must be prohibitive. http://dirtbikeafrica.com/Store/index.php?route=product/product&path=64_59&product_id=147
  12. Hope the attachments help. Taken directly from an '02 XR650L Honda Owners Manual.
  13. I've always been a large man, 6'4" 275 lbs and im looking into getting a decent bike for hard enduro. I understand that light is better however I have a chance to pick up a 2013 honda xr650l for only 3k$ and was wondering if it would be an ok bike for this type of riding. We also have roughly 150+ miles of goverment maintained trails where I live and would like to take it out on those to (id probably ride it to work on overly nice days). Is this a decent bike for hard enduro at my size? Would I need to purchase a new suspension or can I tune the current one? Is this bike even worth the 3k$ he's asking? (I constantly see the same bike from 2002-2008 run at this price where I live) What are good cheap mods to do to it if I do get it? (Already has the carb mod/welded subframe/egr removed) What should I look out for when buying? What is the rebuild mileage? He has roughly 9k on it, I dont make great $ and im paying for school at the same time so I'm looking for very low maintenance (besides oil/filter swaps every few rides)
  14. Unfortunately today I messed up my 1995 650l, I bought some engine degreaser and some wire scrubbers at advanced auto. When I came back I stupidly powerwashed my bike and degreased it like an ape trying to get it to look good as new. I didn't cover the exhaust or carb or battery or anything. Probably an idiotic thing to do but it is my first bike (first couple days with it) and I am learning. I also added some 10w-40 castrol motor oil to top it off cause I saw it had a small leak and the oil was half of full. Anyway, when I started the bike smoke or probably steam came off the front of the bike I took it around the block it felt sluggish. I let it sit and it died. I tried to start it with the choke but it only would fire up a small amount before dying. Now it wont start at all and before I washed it it fired up no problem. The lights come on and the engine turns over fine so Idk if it electrical or not. What should I do? Could it be the oil? Did I cause a short? Do I have to take off the carb and dry it out? Is it the spark plug? Battery? Any advice on where I should look would be very appreciated, please be kind its my first post and like I said i am a newbie.
  15. I have a 2016 XR650l just bought a XR only slip on muffler have tried several aftermarket and the stock clamp but can't get a snug fit. I am trying to connect the XR Only exhaust to the stock header pipe. The exhaust is leaking pretty bad. Does anyone have any ideas or ways to help fix this? Thanks for the help!
  16. I bought a 1995 XR650L a couple weeks ago, and after seeing the wiring diagrams that were available online, I decided to create a more user-friendly version. If you see any errors, let me know. FYI, I will update this graphic as I make edits. Thanks
  17. Hey guys. Ive been running into some trouble with tuning my fcr carb on my 2000 Honda xr650l. Its desmogged, de snorkled and has a uni air filter. Ive spent some tme trying to tune it but after talking with some guys i was going way to rich. I followed thier suggested tuning of 158 main, 48 pilot, NCVT needle 3rd clip from the top. After doing that the bike fired right up, way better than any of my other trys but when it heated up it would want to die. When i tried taking it back around the block it had a bad bog when i opened the throttle (ive adjusted the AP circuit properly already and tested it). It was also backfiring alot and at one point just conked out. Any insight that would help me? Thanks!
  18. Hi everybody. I am a long time lurker since 2014 when I bought a new '14 XR650L, now a TT Newbie. I have really appreciated and enjoyed all of the wisdom, advice, and know-how that I have found on this site. It has enabled me to do all of my own mods and wrenching on my XR so far. I have come across an issue now that I have searched for information about on TT and other sites but can't seem to find anything more than an honorable mention of. If there are threads on this subject on TT, I have not found them, so please don't hurt me too badly if I am mistaken. I have blown out two cylinder base gaskets, Before I replace it again, would like to see if anyone else has had this problem and how they actually resolved it. Base info is: combination of Dave's mods with DynaJet stuff (yeah I know), 55 pilot, 2-1/2 turns out, smog pump off, K&N filter (yeah I know), FMF Q4, cut the top of the air box out, 14t front and 52t rear sprockets, and many other non power drive related things... Bike runs really good. Last summer, I was riding really dusty trails. The intake boot slipped off of the carburetor, filter side obviously, and I may have ridden for hours like that. From the head, back, took everything apart and cleaned thoroughly, changed the oil, and kept riding, mostly off road. I could tell it had lost some power. Lately, trying to tune out a slight hesitation, I was hammering it pretty hard in second gear and letting off the throttle , in second gear. The base gasket blew almost all the way out on the front side of the cylinder (oil coming out). Did a compression test with the de-comp disabled and got only about 150 psi. Tore it down and found many, but slight, vertical scratches in the bore. Honed the cylinder and re-ringed, all new OEM top end gaskets. The top ring end gap is at end of service limit .014" and the second ring end gap is just past service limit at .021". Fired right up after repairs and running stronger than ever. Using a controversial (not so easy on it) break in method, kind of hammering on and off (like before) the base gasket pushed out again, this time on the left side of the engine. Yes, I broke the gasket right there trying to get the cylinder on, but kept on going (yeah I know). But it didn't push out just a little bit, it was pushed nearly all of the way out, just like before, in the first 10 miles of the (hard) break in. I have checked the crankcase breather, it's clear. Oil is pumping fine to the top. No pinched or kinked oil lines. Not sure just how much air should be coming through the crankcase breather hose but researching other issues it doesn't seem to be excessive. Actually the pressure coming out of the breather hose levels off at higher rpms (bike on the stand). The dip stick, if left unscrewed but sitting on the filler neck dances around a little with the bike at idle. The crankcase oil level check bolt test checks out good. Haven't done a compression test or leak down test after the new rings but the motor is running really strong. Don't think I'm getting more than normal blow by into the crankcase. Do any of you have any experience with this or wisdom thereof? Thanks in advance, Kennglynnedy Old Harley rider changing gears and moving into the woods. Too many folks driving their cars, looking at their cell phones, and running into each other for me to ride on the street anymore. Wanna buy a nice Sportster (hehe) '14 XR650L, '13 CRF250L, '16 CRF450X, '03 XL Sportster
  19. Long time listener first time caller. Little backstory, bought a very nice "one owner" 94 xr650l. All stock with smog deleted. It had 11k on it and had very small sprockets. Put about 1000 miles on it and enjoyed every minute of it. Over the winter I tried my hand at the dave's mod along with a few bolt ons. Finally I got it the way I wanted and took it out for the first time in a 2 or 3 months and it sounded like I let loose a box of rattlers inside. Did my research and sent it to XR's only for valve seats. He could neither confirm nor deny it needing valve seats but we did them just incase, along with that he also found a crack in my spark plug hole. He welded that up and sent it back to Oklahoma. It was at this time you could imagine how ancy I was getting to get back on the old girl, I went ahead and ordered a new cam chain as I could tell my tensioner was wound out. I have replaced cam chains before and did not think this to be too big of a project. After installing all my new components and my fresh head, I go to start it up and what to my surprise NO SPARK. I scratched my head, cussed, prayed and now I am finally asking for some expert advise. The only electrical changes I made to the bike in the mean time was adding a set of led offload lights wired straight to the battery. I have since removed these and checked all fuses. short circuited the clutch safety and kickstand. My question is, is there any timing that goes into the cam chain? I understand cam timing and I am for certain I am right on, Ive double and triple checked, but I remember when replacing the clutch basket and one way gear on a trx450r there were small timing dimples on the gears that needed lined up. I never saw any of these on the xr and the manual is pretty light when it comes to replacing the cam chain. Could I possibly have set it wrong where it no longer fires? Any other ideas or opinions? My ignition coil ohms out a little high may be thats it? What about the wires that come from the right side of the engine? I remember removing that assembly during the chain process, is there a way to set that wrong? (Not really sure what that is to be honest) Is there something blatantly obvious I am missing?
  20. I'm hoping to swap the front rim on my 03 XR650L for a 19" and found an excel with the same spoke count (32) at 19 x 1.85. Would I be able to use the rest of the stock components swapping the 21 x 1.6 for a 19 x 1.85 (both 32 spoke)? Thanks,
  21. Can anyone tell me if a Showa rear shock off an XR650R would definitely fit an XR650L (mine is a 2008)? Thanks!
  22. so i have made template for xr6xx heads - single and dual carb versions. planning to have them water jetted, but unsure what aluminum to use - my thoughts lean toward: 3xxx Series Alloys – (non-heat treatable – with ultimate tensile strength of 16 to 41 ksi) These are the aluminum / manganese alloys (manganese additions ranging from 0.05 to 1.8%) and are of moderate strength, have good corrosion resistance, good formability and are suited for use at elevated temperatures. One of their first uses was pots and pans, and they are the major component today for heat exchangers in vehicles and power plants. Their moderate strength, however, often precludes their consideration for structural applications. These base alloys are welded with 1xxx, 4xxx and 5xxx series filler alloys, dependent on their specific chemistry and particular application and service requirements. but i think the non-heat treatable is a knock esp if you are doing cloverleaf heads that really should be heat treated before surface finishing and machining... so does that point to: 6XXX Series Alloys – (heat treatable – with ultimate tensile strength of 18 to 58 ksi) These are the aluminum / magnesium - silicon alloys (magnesium and silicon additions of around 1.0%) and are found widely throughout the welding fabrication industry, used predominantly in the form of extrusions, and incorporated in many structural components. The addition of magnesium and silicon to aluminum produces a compound of magnesium-silicide, which provides this material its ability to become solution heat treated for improved strength. These alloys are naturally solidification crack sensitive, and for this reason, they should not be arc welded autogenously (without filler material). The addition of adequate amounts of filler material during the arc welding process is essential in order to provide dilution of the base material, thereby preventing the hot cracking problem. They are welded with both 4xxx and 5xxx filler materials, dependent on the application and service requirements. i am not conversant with solution heat treatment. i always thought the al in heads had a fair amount of silicon... so anybody got thoughts of what alloy best to use? i am thinking that maybe this should become a group buy. let me figure out the yield from a sheet of aluminum and the cost of waterjetting and then we can see if this is something TT members want in on. i can't imagine it will cost much - no upcharge, just share the cost of material and jetting - i would think the more we cut, the cheaper it gets per unit. neil
  23. Hey guys, I put a Mikuni TM40 on my XR600R and really like it, but I always wondered if the FCR might be better. I ran across this EBay listing for a new FCR style carburetor. It doesn't show as a Keihin brand. Anybody buy one of these yet? Its a good price but I won't buy if the quality isn't there. I bought another XR and thought I would try an FCR on the new bike so I have one of each. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF-450-R-CRF450R-Carburetor-Carb-2002-2008-NEW/122835304977?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd8d46407b09b4518913684b5910695aa%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D253192404113&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 Any input?
  24. I have a 2000 xr650l and I bought it with a tm40 carb on it and the jetting is way off anybody trying to help? I am less then 1000ft above sea level if that helps any. Thanks in advance!
  25. I've got a 93' xr650l with about 7,000 miles total. 1,000 miles on top end rebuild by dans cycles in round rock tx. I bought the bike about a month ago and noticed a weird noise in the top end. It wasn't happening often until recently. And it only occurs during a specific low end rpm. A local mechanic diagnosed it as potentially a "spark knock" given that he saw a worn ignition coil,spark plug boot. I replaced those and it still made the noise. I run supreme gas only, adjusted the valves to spec twice just to make sure and it still makes the noise. When adjusting the valves, i manually rotated the engine and i believe i have narrowed the sound down to the right side exhaust valve. It seems to catch for a second and then release suddenly, making the noise. Could it be a loose valve seat? Decompression mechanism in the cam? help haha youtube video coming soon
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