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Found 57 results

  1. I am considering buying an 07 xr650l. The only iffy part I feel about purchasing the bike is that every time it starts after sitting for 4 plus hours a cloud of black smokes shoots out from the exhaust. What could cause this? Should that stop me from buying the bike?
  2. TheLastByte

    Which fork oil?

    Changing out my fork oil on a new to me 650l. What's generally recommended for stock springs and valving?
  3. I am considering buying a crf 250l dual sport. I like the size and seems like the perfect lil bike to whip around town in. Its my alternative to a scooter. Not to mention the price tag is very attractive. I'd like to make it into a scrambler. My buddy told me this would be difficult because this particular bike has a perimeter frame, and a metal gas tank wouldn't properly fit. Also the radiator is up front under the plastics and would stick out funny. Any ideas and could someone school me on what a perimeter frame is and why a cool looking metal gas tank won't fit? Any ideas on how to make this possible? I know the xr 650 could work but I like how small and cheap the 250 is. Thanks
  4. TheLastByte

    Stainless brake lines

    What brand brake lines are you running on your bikes, and what length lines should I buy front and rear?
  5. After a couple months of trial/error and loads of research, I finally got my FCR 40 dialed in and running right! I learned alot along the way and saw alot of people running into the same issues I was. I figured I'd write up some of the information I picked up to help out someone who might be having issues. I snagged a used FCR40 from a CRF450x off of ebay for a steal in June. The first thing I did was tear in to it to clean and inspect the components inside. I had to replace the accelerator pump diaphragm and some o-rings. My first mistake was spraying carb cleaner on the slide. There's an o-ring on the slide itself that will swell and degrade when it comes into contact with carb cleaner. Also, watch out for the way the slide/floating plate go back into the carb body. The correct orientation is for the open circle on the plate to face the bottom of the slide and the plate faces the engine side of the carburetor. Anything other than that and you will be stuck with idle surging and stalling. The hot start port on OEM carbs is another issue that needs to be addressed. My carburetor didn't come with the hot start knob so it was just a giant hole in the side of the carb. Blocking it off with a bolt won't fix the issue. There are two holes that need to be plugged inside the carb, one is at the top of the engine side of the bore and the other is under the top cap of the carb near the same area. I used silicon to plug it and then put a bolt through in the opening in the outer case. The biggest issue that took me a long time to figure out was the idle circuit. On the OEM FCR the intake bell is flat but the aftermarket has a removable bell that smooths out the airflow and lets you use the regular air intake. On the OEM models the air intake has a section that lines up with the bell and smooths out the airflow. Without an intake adapter your carb will never run right at idle, I ran a 58 pilot and soldered/redrilled the air jet down to a 60 and it still hung up on me. I got the adapter off ebay for ~$42 shipped and went back up to an 80 air jet and she purrs like a kitten! I spent just as much trying to jet my crappy homemade adapter correctly as I did on the adapter. Hopefully this will help someone who's trying to setup their FCR. The carburetor is worth every penny, smooth instant throttle response and I feel like she picked up some power too!
  6. Hey all, after a busy summer of school and work I've finally carved out some time to replace my busted countershaft. After reviewing several threads about the kickstart addition, I decided this would be my chance to have a kickstart/easy button combo bike. Luckily enough I found a '95 XR600R basket case with a blown head but very useable bottom end with all the kicker bits I need! Pulled out the engine last night and now I need a little bit of sagely advice from the wise folks here at TT: First, I need a gasket set for the rebuild, will Winderosa/Mooseracing be okay, or should I only put in OEM gaskets? Also, I'll be splitting both cases this week to get all the parts out and begin putting them in the L, but is there anything specifically I should be looking out for when inspecting the donor parts? Any tips on splitting the cases in general? Finally, I know there's been a handful of people who have done this mod, and I know everything fits into place in the L bottom end nicely, but has anyone had any strange issues? This bike will be carrying myself and some gear to Baja this winter for ~3 weeks and it needs to be dead reliable, or at least as reliable as it was last year in baja. Thanks to everyone on the boards who has helped me out thus far, the kickstart add on threads are very helpful! I should say, this is my first complete tear down so any advice/tips are very welcome! Here's a pic of the engines out on bench:
  7. Hello everyone, So the biggest performance bang for your buck IMO is a FCR carb swap in your XR650L. I have an '03 that I swapped in a 40mm carb from an '08 CRF450R. The swap was easy, and I noticed a big increase in throttle response. However, intermittently, the bike falls on it's face when I give it throttle. If I let off the throttle, it will barely maintain speed, and if I twist it again, it just bogs. Like it's not getting fuel. After cruising slowly or stopping for a while, then the bike runs fine. It's sporadic and definitely is instigated by wheelies. Fuel flow is OK with a full tank, so I'm thinking the float level needs adjusted? It's almost like...if the float bowl is full, it runs great. After the float bowl is depleted, it falls on it's face. Any suggestions, or other ideas? Thanks for any help!
  8. Ok folks, I've read forum after forum asking this same type of question without any definite answers. I'll try to phrase the question specific to my case. I have a 1995 Honda XR600. I need a new rear wheel (p/n 42650-MAG-305). In the forum's I've read that the Honda XR650L rear wheel isn't interchangeable due to the size of the axle, which in turn would point to bearings, collar and possibly other parts. The forum's have also stated detailed information such as the diameter of the axle, ID and OD of the bearings, the different size of the brake caliper. This information supposedly came from microfiche. I've seen references that the XR650L rear wheels (p/n 42650-MY6-326) are interchangealbe from years 93 - 07. These wheels are abundant on eBay. The XR600R wheels are non existent except 1980's models. Finally my questions. Where can I find definite information regarding the sizes of the various parts for the wheel assemblies ? If the sizes of the inner workings are different, could I canabalize the inner workings from my 600R and fit them to a 650L ? This would also be dependent on the brake caliper dimensions, OD diameters of bearings, and possibly bolt hole patterns of the sprockets and caliper. Thank you in advance for your knowledge and information on this subject.
  9. I just bought a 2012 xr650l and it starts and runs great until about 4000 rpm give or take (I’m guessing) it feels like it spits and pukes. Also when releasing the throttle the exhaust pops and hiccups. I am calling the dealership to ask if they are willing to fix the problem as I just purchased from them yesterday but I am curious as to what the problem could be in case they do not offer to help for my “as is” purchase. I have read a couple other topics on here that talk about the vacuum lines being hooked up to an air cut diaphram but I don’t know what that is. The smog delete has been done on this bike as well as a slip on dg exhaust and the side cover has a bunch of holes drilled in it exposing the air filter. The battery has also been relocated. My question is what jetting should I have at 2000 feet? I am planning on opening up the carb to see what the idle jet and main jet are and if they were even changed from stock. Also if someone knows about the air cut being hooked up to vacuum and can supply pictures that would be very helpful. I know that the smog block off kits just plug the vacuum holes and the air cut usually gets disconnected. Thanks.
  10. my 650 is not working, and, i want to make it bulletproof as possible. after doing a bunch of searching, i found that the probably (please correct me if im wrong) best fix for the xr650l ignition issues, is to replace the CDI with a megajolt. from what i understand, you have to swap the pulse generator pickup with another wheel, one from another model and year. from there, you have to run a line from the intake, so the megajolt knows the bike is running, from the vacuum. otherwise splice this megajolt in, and add a coil spark plug cap, and then your 650 ignition should keep working as it should. however!! what are the specifics?? i cant seem to find a step by step, anywhere! i want to make this happen, for my own bike! has anyone posted a step by step for this?? or does anyone have other ideas? PLEASE POST! i dont want my ignition to fail, i want to tour on this bike! thanks, from all of us BRP riders!
  11. I have a 2014 Honda XR650L and need advice for setting the rear shock adjustments. The OEM service manual doesn't even address the compression or damper settings. I located an adjusting screw at the top of the canister and a thumb wheel behind the mudflap. Seems like they have about 20 clicks each. Not worried about sag at this point. Riding and rider specs: Terrain- Street 70% Trail 20% Motocross 10%, No racing. Small jumps. Rider- 50+, 250+ with gear. Novice I will be getting larger springs frt/rear at a later date. Thanks!
  12. Hey Guys, I recently purchased a brand new XR650L. I have already de-snorkeled and de-smogged it, have a K&N air filter, powerbomb header and FMF Q4 Exhaust. Also installed is a stage 1 dynojet kit. It works great but I find myself craving a more responsive ride so I have decided to upgrade my carb to the Mikuni TM42-6 flatside pumper. Its hard to find a good source on proper jetting for this application. The distributor I ordered it from says it comes "mostly" tuned for my application. Anyone have any advice on what jetting works best for this setup? Is there any other upgrades that you would consider essential to compliment the higher performance carburetor? I'm pretty new to all this and will appreciate any advice you guys have to offer
  13. I recently purchased a brand new XR650L. I have already de-snorkeled and de-smogged it, have a K&N air filter, powerbomb header and FMF Q4 Exhaust. Also installed is a stage 1 dynojet kit. It works great but I find myself craving a more responsive ride so I have decided to upgrade my carb to the Mikuni TM42-6 flatside pumper. Its hard to find a good source on proper jetting for this application. The distributor I ordered it from says it comes "mostly" tuned for my application. Anyone have any advice on what jetting works best for this setup? Is there any other upgrades that you would consider essential to compliment the higher performance carburetor? I'm pretty new to all this and will appreciate any advice you guys have to offer
  14. Selling my CB750 brat build for a dual sport and want to go the scrambler route. Decided on the xr650 and looking at one with a 'new top end' but unsure what it's worth (as well as if it's a riskier purchase than one with 'no known issues.' Attached is a picture of the bike and the invoice from the shop that the current owner passed along. Should I pass based on the repair (or that fact the the owner over-heated it)? If it's still a go, how much should I offer? Is the oil cooler a must now? Thanks in advance from a newbie!
  15. loosechange

    scrambler crf 250l

    I am considering buying a crf 250l dual sport. I like the size and seems like the perfect lil bike to whip around town in. Its my alternative to a scooter. Not to mention the price tag is very attractive. I'd like to make it into a scrambler. My buddy told me this would be difficult because this particular bike has a perimeter frame, and a metal gas tank wouldn't properly fit. Also the radiator is up front under the plastics and would stick out funny. Any ideas and could someone school me on what a perimeter frame is and why a cool looking metal gas tank won't fit? Any ideas on how to make this possible? I know the xr 650 could work but I like how small and cheap the 250 is. Thanks
  16. Hey All! Reposting my first post from touring/adventure touring - thought this forum would see more activity. Here it is: 7/18/17 Hello Thumper Talk Community! This is my first post here, just created my account a few minutes ago. I apologize if I violate any type of forum rules or formatting, but I'm sure I'll learn as I go. To begin with: I've been riding dirtbikes since I was 8. I am currently a 19 year old University student in upstate NY, and I am riding a 2006 Honda XR650L that I bought myself when I turned 16. I've attached pictures of it (taken today, as I wrote this post) to illustrate the condition it is in, what it looks like, etc. While I have been riding for an extremely long time, and consider myself a safe and competent rider, I have a very limited mechanical knowledge of motorcycles. My dad introduced me to bikes and taught me to ride, but my riding experience over the years has been on my own, and my mechanical knowledge is self-taught and basic maintenance of my bike at best - nothing fancy whatsoever. He and I don't really speak anymore, and therefore I don't have any type of guidance or reference points when it comes to bike mechanics (or mechanics of any kind, for that matter). Nevertheless, I am very interested in modifying and improving my bike and possibly beginning a project to convert it into a café racer or scrambler-esque bike. I rarely go off-road anymore and use my XR as a daily driver, but I find the traction of off-road tires to be favorable and have never had street tires. Therefore I'm debating whether or not to keep my off-road tires (or get different ones), making the bike more of a scrambler - or to use street tires making it more of a café racer. If I'm using terminology wrong and have no idea what the f**k I'm talking about, then please always feel free to correct me. I am using Daniel Peter's custom XR650L café racer, and Ready Moto's brat/cafe racer as inspiration. I think both are beautiful bikes/rebuilds, and want something very similar as my final product. However, I think Daniel Peter's bike is tricked out in a very expensive (and unnecessary to me) way (i.e. antelope seat, c'mon dude). I also want to preserve my passenger seat and pegs, if possible. I have absolutely no idea where to start, and have no current access to welding or fabrication machines of any kind. I'm asking for a full walkthrough and as much help as you all are willing to give me. Because I'm in school, I have a very limited budget. Basically, I'm willing to do my short term modifications and enhancements, and probably put the conversion project on hold until the spring. This is particularly dependent upon the advice I get. I don't need the bike as much in the fall, because I live on my college campus, but it's nice to have around in working condition (I know the project would require pulling it all apart and not riding for a while). So if any part I need for this is expensive but necessary, I will save up for it and make it happen. If there are cheaper, reasonable alternatives to achieve the same goal, then I will do that. I'd appreciate all advice along those lines. I just replaced my battery two weeks ago, and am going to attempt to replace the brake pads (a simple job, I know, but with luck/mechanical ability like mine, it can be quite daunting!) The chain is new, the frame has been reinforced at certain points, but everything else is stock! What I Want Out of This Bike (Short Term) 1. I'd like to put the battery underneath the seat - what are the benefits/disadvantages of this? To my knowledge it'll just slim the profile of the bike when I take off side paneling and prevent the battery from getting wet or as damaged in a drop. 2. I want to clean it up, particularly the rusted parts, and possibly repaint/replace them to make sure the bike looks better. (Need guidance for this, as I'm unsure how to remove rust/how to go about repainting parts - why I posted pics, so hopefully this community can identify where my "problem areas" are on this bike). 3. Learn how to properly winterize and maintain bike. Currently I check oil regularly, fill it with premium gas, lube the chain once or a week or more, and wash it (probably not enough) and spray WD-40 on various pieces. If I'm an incompetent fool, tell me. 4. Replace footpegs, throttle, handgrips. 5. If feasible with my current bike, put in a circular (brighter) headlight instead of the stock square one. Am willing to get rid of red plastic housing, or find an alternative. What I Want Out of This Bike (Long Term) 1. A full café-racer type conversion, styled similar to what I linked above. My dream "bought brand new" bike currently is a Triumph Bonneville converted to a scrambler (provided a pic) to let y'all know what I'm interested in, aesthetically. 2. Switch out stock carb (40mm) with a 41mm Keihin FCR-MX flat slide. I've been doing lots of reading, and it looks like this will drastically improve bike performance and throttle response in many ways, not limited to AFR and starting. I know nothing about AFR...or carbs. 3. Repaint the sucker! I've read online various opinions, the main camps seem to be either (a) don't do it yourself, have a professional do it or (b) you can do it yourself very carefully. Sorry for the giant wall of text, I appreciate those who have read this far. Please ask any questions, give comments, critiques, advice, anything! I look forward to hearing what the TT Community has to say. Cheers! John UPDATE 07/22/17 I replaced both front and rear brake pads because I had irresponsibly been using very worn-down ones, and the friction subsequently wore down my rotors. Not bad enough to replace rotors (thank goodness, I'm too cheap for that right now), but still negligent on my part. Started taking the most rusted bolts out and WD40+steel wool scrubbing them, then putting grease on. I don't have any never-seize, but I'll get some at some point. For now, grease should suffice. Going to wash the bike soon, scrub everything down and then get to polishing up....everything!
  17. Hey All, Made an original post on this forum that is a bit wordy, so giving a condensed summary here for those willing to read a bit more (pics are also in that post), and help me out. 19 year old with very little mechanical knowledge, fairly proficient rider, looking for advice on proper bike maintenance and how to get started on converting my bike into a café racer/scrambler type of bike. In OP (and here) I included pictures of what I want the bike to look like more or less, and many other details. My bike has around 27,000 miles on it, and I've let it get a bit too rusted - so advice on the pics in that post and whether I need to replace certain parts or just get to polishing/scrubbing away rust with WD40. Any and all tips are appreciated about this bike and project - thanks! John
  18. Can anyone explain to me why the mid-pipe on certain XR600R/XR650L exhausts gets substantially bigger before attaching to the muffler? In most cases it is actually the same size as the muffler where it attaches. The XR's only mufflers are a great example of this and so is my White Brothers E series muffler. On the other hand you have the more traditional mid-pipe shape from companies like FMF for the same XR600R. The midpipe is relatively the same size from the header to the muffler connection. Even high performance street bikes use this approach so why is it different with the big single? I've been looking at replacing my White Brothers muffler lately because it doesn't have the discs nor the backing plate to make it USFS approved. I've been back and forth between the FMF Powercore 4 and the xr's only mufflers. I was wondering if the odd mid-pipe shape helps the XR's only mufflers flow better. From what I've read the XR's only mufflers are stupid loud and that would warrant a quiet insert for me and thus choking the high flow muffler, right? Also, for anyone wondering- the White Brothers header that was installed on my XR600R is VERY CLOSE to the same dimensions as an XR's only header at both the cylinder and mid-pipe connection.
  19. so a group of hooligan children ran through my town causing damage to peoples property and unfortunately my bike was a part of the destruction, i started my bike the other morning to findd the motor ticking and checked the oil to find that 1.5 quarts out of 2 has been drained from the bike, so my question is does the frame hold 1.5 quarts because if it does then they drained the oil from the frame bolt which is completely exposed and easy to open. luckily i caught it immediately and did an oil change and the tick went away ( for now). no metal shavings in the .5 quart of iol i drained but, how screwed is my motor? and does the frame hold 1.5 quarts? im trying to figure out what happened because it doesnt burn and it doesnt leak oil so my only other thought is these &%$#@! kids.
  20. banditorama

    XR650l FCR 40 jetting problems

    I've been trying to work out this low speed jetting issue for a while now and am running into some weird problems. It seems like most of the bikes I see with this mod are running either a 42 or 45 pilot and now I'm sitting at a 55 and still having lean running issues. The bike will cough through the carb at less than 3 turns under 1/4 throttle on fuel screw. Above 3 turns it will run fine off idle but the idle sometimes hangs. As the bike sits it's running 55 pilot, 85 pilot air jet, ELT needle (NCVT equivalent) three clips from the bottom, and 165 main jet. Above 1/4 throttle the bike runs like a champ and pulls hard throughout the rpms/throttle position. With the 55 pilot I can set the fuel screw ~3 turns out and I won't get any cough back through the carb under 1/4 throttle but it has problems with the idle hanging intermittently. Anything above 3 turns out and the idle starts to drop and the bike will stall. I'm around 500 above sea level. Carb has a new vacuum release plate o-ring, completely cleaned out, hot start air ports rtv'ed shut, rd powerbowl 2. Another thing is I bought the carb missing the whole tps sensor (might be an issue) but I tested the open part where it should be by spraying propane at the opening and had no change in idle speed. I've got a 58 pilot on order but it just seems like that's big compared to everyone else. Any advice would be appreciated!
  21. How the hell are you supposed to get that thing out? I bought that overpriced motion pro tool, tried heating it and soaking it, and it still will not move a millimeter. Do I have to use an impact driver, or do I have to drill the peening out? Can I reuse the retainer once it is out? Can I just loctite it back in later, or should I re-peen it?
  22. TrailandTail

    2013 XR650L questions

    I've always been a large man, 6'4" 275 lbs and im looking into getting a decent bike for hard enduro. I understand that light is better however I have a chance to pick up a 2013 honda xr650l for only 3k$ and was wondering if it would be an ok bike for this type of riding. We also have roughly 150+ miles of goverment maintained trails where I live and would like to take it out on those to (id probably ride it to work on overly nice days). Is this a decent bike for hard enduro at my size? Would I need to purchase a new suspension or can I tune the current one? Is this bike even worth the 3k$ he's asking? (I constantly see the same bike from 2002-2008 run at this price where I live) What are good cheap mods to do to it if I do get it? (Already has the carb mod/welded subframe/egr removed) What should I look out for when buying? What is the rebuild mileage? He has roughly 9k on it, I dont make great $ and im paying for school at the same time so I'm looking for very low maintenance (besides oil/filter swaps every few rides)
  23. Hope the attachments help. Taken directly from an '02 XR650L Honda Owners Manual.
  24. Looking to replace the busted up stock tank on my 650l, but have no need for more fuel capacity.
  25. I'm getting down to the end of working on a nearly bolt on EFI conversion for my xr650l (and maybe yours too!) Our bikes only came with crank sensors so have provisions for mounting them, nbd. Cam sensors on the other hand... I believe I can use what appears to be a very convient casting in the valve cover that with a little milling should accomadate a standard sensor. It lines up almost perfectly with the camshaft. I've already found that there is some variance in how Honda cast these bosses, ie: with or without holes in them. Doesn't matter though, just a few more chips left on the table after the machine work. So what I could use are few quick measurements to make sure this works. Need inner and outer diameter of the two bosses(red and blue) as well as the center to center distance of the two.
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