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Found 6 results

  1. Just a little feedback regarding a switch to a new Quick Throttle or Quick Turn or High Speed throttle tube on a bike with handlebar risers. I found out the hard way that the stock grip is vulking Vulcanized (bonded well beyond mere epoxy) to the stock throttle tube. I decided to replace with a Quick Turn throttle tube and learned a lesson about adjustment. My bike now has the Zeta Aluminum throttle tube. I don't consider it a "true" quick turn throttle tube as it does not reduce the throttle range to 1/4 (or thereabouts). It does reduce the range to Wide Open throttle by about 25% from the stock setup. (Helps with wrist stress/carpal tunnel.) I had to spend more time than most getting my throttle cables adjusted after installing the new throttle tube. While there is no such thing as "plug n' play" with a system as important or as sensitive as your throttle, I needed to spend more time than I initially estimated. Normally, a throttle tube swap or even moving the same throttle to a new handlebar requires adjustment. This is easily accomplished by adjusting the in-cable nut under its two-piece rubber cover on the cable right next to your front brake cylinder. For me I had to take the extra step of adjusting cable free play at the carb. (I am with a rejetted Mikuni 36.) This involved taking off the gas tank in order to get to the carb's throttle cables (push and pull). I had done this before after I had added Rox 2" risers to the bike during the same weekend I rejetted the carb. I thought I would be in good shape for then on out. I guess the combination of risers plus the throttle tube which routes the cable differently in the bracket housing was enough to throw things out of whack. The in-cable adjustment was turned to the max and I still wasn't getting the snap-back I liked so I had to go to the adjustments on the carb. One pro tip: Before you go adjusting your cables at the carb, adjust your more easily accessible in-cable adjuster at the handlebar to the middle of its range. That way you'll have more play to adjust your throttle on-the-go in the future after more wear occurs. If you adjust at your carb first while the in-cable adjuster is already at its max, you'll have no easy freeplay later. See this fantastic post by a member regarding his Zeta throttle tube experience. Pictures and diagrams galore. If you've thought about a Zeta Quick Turn, I recommend this: I will rate my own Zeta Quick Turn Throttle Tube in the Reviews Section when I get time.
  2. I have a 2017 KTM 300 XC-W with a little more than 5 hours on it. Since day one I've noticed that the clutch drags a bit. When on the stand with the clutch pulled all the way in, the wheel will spin pretty fast, I also notice it when pulling in the clutch when going down hill. I'm wondering if I should back bleed the master cylinder, I'm also wondering if using the Zeta folding levers which were installed by the dealership is causing increased travel... maybe I should throw on the factory levers.
  3. In one of the OEM/model-specific forums, a TT member posted the following as part of a thread on lowering a bike: I could be completely wrong but it seems to me that the Zeta ring wouldn't have much effect on the height of the bike when sitting or standing on the bike because it only reduces how far the shaft can extend out of the shock body when it's fully extended. When seated or standing on the pegs, the spring will be compressed and the shaft will go further inside the body than when it is at rest so you would be at the same height on the bike for dabbing etc. This all assumes that nothing would be changed for the preload on the rear spring. To get the same sag measurement as before, you would need to back off on the preload tension and this would lower the rear of the bike. But how would the handling be different than having the preload rings at that position without the lowering ring? It seems to me that you would also need to change the rear spring rate for the bike to behave much differently. It seems that shock spacers are often considered to be better than lowering linkages but I don't understand why unless there was also a change in the spring rate. Can anyone here explain this to me? Thanks!
  4. I finally got my zeta drop down hand guards in the mail. I took the original bar end off to find theres a small threaded hole that the Zeta hardware wont fit in... What do I have to do? Cut the bars down? How much do I need to cut off?
  5. hey guys Im looking into getting Zeta pro handguards, but im not sure what the which mount type to get the options are front mount side mount BC mount U clamp mount Swivel mount if anyone has them installed on their crf 250l with stock handlebars please let me know what option you went with, im hoping to have them wraparound my levers while mounting to the triple clamps.
  6. Time Left: 19 days and 12 hours

    • WANTED
    • New

    I am looking for a few Yoshimura + Zeta parts for my Suzuki DRZ400s. PayPal Payment only (shipped to NY, fees included) -Yoshimura engine guard (skidplate) in both colors -Yoshimura engine plug kit (have several TDC plugs, need crank inspection plugs, both colors) -Zeta Oil filter cover and Zeta Starter cover -Yoshimura engine mounts -Yoshimura Brake pedal clevis (i think in 2 colors) -Yoshimura was rumored to have made triple clamps as well... Pics for examples. Looking to buy multiples of each if you have it, Need these for a pretty specific build. Pm or reply here, thanks!


    , New York

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