Review of AirPro Fork Bleeders...

[cadman_ks]

In this thread:

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1098990-automatic-fork-bleeders/

 

I asked the question if anyone had ever used these.  I didn't get any responses that anyone had, but there was some other good information in that thread about bleeding, and other systems, so I won't go over that here.

 

In the end, I took one for the team, and I did opt for the AirPro Fork Bleeders.  My logic was this:  I put them on, and I never worry about them again.  I don't push anything, I don't change anything, I just let them constantly do their thing.

 

First off, let me say that the kit is VERY nice, and the components are world class.  The machining is nice, and the parts really look good.  The company, AirProFork.com was also very easy to work with.  I placed my order online, and the next day I had confirmation that they were coming my way.  One thing that is a little bit hard to figure out on their website is that they don't clearly have some of the models, like KTM's listed, so you have to hunt around a little bit to find them.  

 

After the kit arrived, I was a little bit concerned for two reasons:  1)  The parts in the kit didn't look at all like the parts online, and 2)  The kit indicated that it was for a Husky.  I decided not to open the kit, and sent them an email to see what the deal was.  Turns out, that they did send me the wrong kit, because they sent me one for Japanese forks, and I needed the German fork connectors.  However, they told me that they had redesigned the part, and didn't have the latest pictures on the website yet, and all I really needed was new fittings.  They quickly sent me the new fittings, and didn't ask for the others back.  Very quick and very friendly customer service.  Top notch again.

 

After getting all of the pieces, I stated in on the install.  At this point, I need to say something about the "reason" that I installed this kit.  I wanted my forks to AUTOMATICALLY bleed off pressure all the time, and I didn't want to think about it, remember?  As I stated in my original thread, I had previously been lax on bleeding.  However, I had just bled my forks two weeks ago, and when I popped the screws to start the installation, a LOT of pressure was already built up in my forks.  This was ALL from road riding, and not any trail riding at all.  There IS air that gets built up in the forks, and if you're supposed to get it out of there, like the manual indicates, then you need something to get it out.

 

These are the parts in the kit:

 

Newly redesigned main body that now mounts directly to the bars.  If you look closely at this image, you can see a small hole in the in middle of the fittings.  That's where the air bleeds out.

 

 

These are the "extra" stuff you need, allen wrench, hoses, hose inserts, and fork fittings:

 

 

The installation is really pretty simple.  You remove the center bar cover by clipping the wire ties holding it on.  When you go to put it back on, you will NOT be able to use the piece on the bottom, and that hasn't seemed to be an issue yet.  You won't need this piece anymore:

 

 

The main body fits very nicely in between the cutout that's already in the bar cover, and it more or less will keep it from rotating too much:

 

 

You start by removing the bleed screws on your forks, and for this installation, you reuse the o-rings.  You use the supplied allen wrench, and turn in the valves:

 

 

Here is a picture with the main valve attached to the bars.  You use the same allen wrench to install the main body.  It tucks down and out of the way behind and to the bottom of the instrument cluster very nicely:

 

 

Then, you install inserts into the tubes to keep oil from going into the hoses, and to keep the tubes from collapsing.  They give you an extra tube in case you cut one too short, but I found that the length that they provided was just right, so I didn't trim any off either end.  Here's a picture with the lines hooked up between the forks and the main body:

 

 

And here's a final shot with the bar pad back on:

 

 

Total time to do the install was around 20 minutes, and if I hadn't been taking pictures, it would have been less.

 

My impressions....

 

Maybe it's a placebo, and I'm imagining things, but I have noticed since installing this bleeder that the fork on my bike is a lot smoother now than before.  It's just not as harsh as it was, and I personally like that feeling, but I know that not everyone does.  So, for me, adding this thing was a BIG help.  And for me, I don't have to remember to bleed my forks.

 

I would highly recommend this kit to anyone that's considering putting fork bleeders on.  If I had anything negative to say, I would like the instructions to be a little bit clearer, but in this case, it doesn't really matter because the installation is so straight forward, and they quickly answer emails, so if you have a question you just email, and they respond right away.  Yeah, it's more expensive that manually activated ones, but you never have to mess with it.  It's always working, and working well...

 

CADman_KS

Edited August 28, 2014 by cadman_ks

[cadman_ks]

One thing that I should have added about the inserts that go in the tubing.

 

They have very very very small holes in them.  I thought about taking a picture of them, but I knew that it wouldn't show up, so I didn't bother.  In my original post, one of the responders indicated that having automatic bleeding forks would not be good because they would constantly be bleeding, especially when the forks are all the way compressed.  While that IS true, which means that you're bleeding on every stroke, the bleeding rate that these inserts allow is not very quickly at all.  There are two of them per tubing, AND then it still has to bleed out of the main hole in the main block, which is also a very very tiny hole.  So, even when it compresses, it does NOT push all of the air out of there.  There is still air in there, so you're still getting the compression air when you bottom out the forks.  

 

Yes, air will be bleeding out some when you're compressed all the way, but it's not like it would be if you opened up the bleeder screw to the atmosphere.

 

I just thought that I would clarify how that works...

 

CADman_KS

[lusk21]

Great write-up as always

[cadman_ks]

Great write-up as always

 

Well, thank you!   ?

[Rider777]

Thank You for the informative and well written post!

 

I really like the whole concept and it's a continuous bleed which is a very good thing!

 

I'll be installing one next week on my 350 EXC.

 

Dave

[cadman_ks]

Thank You for the informative and well written post!

I really like the whole concept and it's a continuous bleed which is a very good thing!

I'll be installing one next week on my 350 EXC.

Dave

Share what you think of the kit.

It's really nice to just ride and nor worry about it!

CADman_KS

Edited August 29, 2014 by cadman_ks

[Rider777]

I just spoke with Charlie at Airpro because I'm concerned that the "manifold" that clamps around the handlebar will fit with my underbar mount Fastway damper.  I've got 1/4" of clearance between top of damper and underside of handlebar.  Charlie says that the clamp is about 1/8" thick so it should fit.   He's a real nice guy and very excited about his product especially for the very positive results he's seen on my model bike.....2014 KTM 350 EXC-F.

 

I'll have the unit next Thursday and after install I'll report back here.  I'm very confident it will be all positive.

 

Dave

[cadman_ks]

...   He's a real nice guy and very excited about his product especially for the very positive results he's seen on my model bike.....

 

 

 

They are definitely great people to work with, and their customer service is outstanding!!!

 

CADman_KS

[Rider777]

.

 

I installed the bleeders....non event as mentioned.

 

Took the bike out for a short ride today and I couldn't tell any difference, but...............I've had my bike's suspension revalved and sprung by Factory Connection (of course before this bleeder install) and it has been very good since that...as in "plush" is the word I guess.

 

Next ride in the sand.....we have a little of that here in the desert......I'll see how it feels.

 

I plan on keeping the bleeders installed unless I see/feel anything negative.  

 

I like the continuous air bleed which is the main reason I bought/installed 'em.

 

Dave

Edited September 7, 2014 by Rider777

[Naf]

Hmmm, you have me curious. I am about to upgrade my forks and shock with ohlins, i dont feel i need this but its probably a nice upgrade

[bowser]

Is the top valve a one way valve (air can only go out)?

Is the top valve set/adjustable to open at different pressures?

 

how does it go when you strap your bike down for transport, it bleeds all the pressure out then you untie the bike and a negative pressure is in the forks from them expanding, how is this pressure equalised, by air bypassing fork seals or the top valve?

 

[cadman_ks]

Is the top valve a one way valve (air can only go out)?

Is the top valve set/adjustable to open at different pressures?

how does it go when you strap your bike down for transport, it bleeds all the pressure out then you untie the bike and a negative pressure is in the forks from them expanding, how is this pressure equalised, by air bypassing fork seals or the top valve?

It is not a valve. It is just a hole in the top of that center plate. It lets air in, it lets air out, all the time.

When you have the bike tied down, the air will just naturally come out of the hole. Then when you untie the bike and the forks extend, air will go back into the hole, however the hole is so small that all of the air won't rush in immediately. I haven't timed it but I would guess that it would take 30 seconds or so for it to equalize...

CADman_KS

[Rider777]

.

 

Update......

 

I've put about 100 miles on the bike with the airpro bleeders installed.

 

I do notice a less sharp ride in the handlebars .  I ride in a lot of sharp edge rocky sections and since I've ridden the same sections often I can compare which is what I did on today's somewhat length ride (for me anyways)  Yup, definitely a smoother ride!

 

Now.....having said all this......I noticed the forks are more prone to bottoming out.   For me this is a non event basically because I rarely ride or come into a situation where the front is likely to bottom out.  Today I went thru a washout that I've ridden thru before at about the same speed and the forks did bottom where they haven't before.  That's the only time on this ride they bottomed out.

 

I'm going to ride with and without a small piece of gorilla tape over the bleed hole and see what/if any difference in ride quality there is.  It's a simple thing to try.

 

Overall I'm very happy with the smoother ride in the handlebars and for the type of riding I do they're keepers.

 

Dave

[Spud786]

THe closed chamber forks seem to have an issue with pressure building up or so Ive heard (if true I guess those would be nice for that), but Ive never seen any pressure build up worth bothering with for an open chamber cartridge fork out of dozens of bikes. The amount of pressure I ve seen build up , is not even measurable.

Ride your bike once or ride it for a whole year, any pressure build up will be insignificant.

[cadman_ks]

THe closed chamber forks seem to have an issue with pressure building up or so Ive heard (if true I guess those would be nice for that), but Ive never seen any pressure build up worth bothering with for an open chamber cartridge fork out of dozens of bikes. The amount of pressure I ve seen build up , is not even measurable.

Ride your bike once or ride it for a whole year, any pressure build up will be insignificant.

 

I beg to differ with that.  Every time that I would manually bleed my forks with the original screw, there was a fair amount of air that came out of there.

 

I definitely haven't noticed any ill effects from having them on there either...

[Spud786]

More than a Pfft?

ever had airforks, that has up to 5psi (that makes a differnce, the amount that builds up in a open chamber is less than a 1 psi, not worth messing with imo.

Edited April 29, 2015 by Spud786

[cadman_ks]

More than a Pfft?

...

 

Yeah, like 2-3 seconds at times when I would bleed them.  Another thing that I was concerned about was taking the bike up to elevation.  I trailer to CO, and the bike is tied down the whole time.  When you get there, they will be pretty pressurized.  I didn't want that to prematurely ruin my seals.  As it turns out, I found an even better way to do that, just go ride in the crappy sandy mud and destroy them.  Much simpler!!!

[Spud786]

2 to 3 seconds, that is a lot of air, probably 10 psi. Ive never seen that with any kx's cr's or present ktm. Nothing more than a .1 second pfft.

So when I saw these items pop up in the last couple years( like a dire necessity), I thought where did these come from and why are they needed, just never saw it as an issue, and still dont.

But you like them and paid for them so, I guess they work for you.

[cadman_ks]

2 to 3 seconds, that is a lot of air, probably 10 psi. Ive never seen that with any kx's cr's or present ktm. Nothing more than a .1 second pfft.

...

 

Most definitely longer than that, and almost always longer than that every time that I would bleed them.  I bled them one afternoon before I left for riding.  Went out on a ROAD ride for a couple of hours, and bled them when I got home, and there was a lot of air that came out of them.  Mine seemed to always have a lot of air in them...

[Spud786]

Is this after installing this kit, or before?